Basic Care sheet

Leopard gecko care sheet.

This care sheet is not all of the information required to care for a reptile properly, but it is a start. If you own a reptile or plan on purchasing one, it is YOUR responsibility to thoroughly research the needs of your pet; doing so will make both your lives easier



Diet

Gecko's are mainly insectivorous animals. Foods taken in captivity consist of arthropods, mealworms, wax worms, black field crickets (be aware that large black crickets can bite so any crickets that are not eaten should not be left in the enclosure for long periods of time or over night), locusts, brown crickets, earthworms and pink mice.

Brown/black Crickets are a good staple diet. For variety, silkworms and occasional waxworms (as these are high in fat) can be offered. Most leopard geckos will not eat pre-prepared dried foods such as can-o-crickets these are not good as live foods as you can not gut load them and dried foods have lost most of their nutritional value. Food items should be no longer than the width of the gecko’s head as crickets tends to fight back and they do bite.

Waxworms are a favourite of most geckos especially mine, they are, however high in fat and are the equivalent of sweets, and therefore these should only be fed as a treat. If fed too many of waxworms, geckos are known to refuse to eat anything else! This can be used as an advantage also, if you can’t for instance get your gecko to eat mealworms, you can squish the guts of a waxworm over it- the gecko will probably take it then.

Mealworms can also be used, there are lots of scare stories about how these mealworms can eat their way through your geckos inside which I have never seen or read before, but to make sure that my gecko is not the first one to be read din a horror story I squash their head, sounds cruel but I rather squash their heads instead of seeing them poking out of her stomach!

The crickets should be fed for at least 24 hours prior to use or you can breed them which I do, I put them in a big plastic container no heating is needed just food and water and you can feed your gecko knowing that you have fed the crickets the best food

Fish food is suitable and porridge oats which come sin the plastic container when you get them from the pet shop, is ideal as well (Fruit/vegetables (e.g. carrot or apple) serve as a source of moisture (and additional vitamins) for the crickets. Plus dusting the crickets is ideal as well before feeding your gecko them. All cricket food should be changed daily to avoid mould growth

1 bag: Dry milk (D, calcium, iron) can get from any supermarket
1 cup: Sunflower seeds (E) pet shop
1 cup: porridge oat
½ cup of fish flakes

All these can be thrown into the box but normally I would rotate weekly first 4 one week the next week the other four but you can mix and match if you want usually I would use

Porridge oat
Fish food, but it does smell so try get some that doesn’t smell that bad lol,
wheat germ
dried egg yolk

Water/nutrients

Carrots (beta-carotene)
iceberg lettuce, NOT THAT much it is watery
Apples

The most commonly discussed supplements include calcium, vitamin D and phosphorous. I use a label called Nutrobal “ a high potency calcium balancer and multivitamin supplement to help bone growth” its personally the best I have used, and saying that I have used this on my Iguana Eddy and my blue tongued skink as well its not cheap but its worth it!!!

Immediately prior to use, add a pinch of vitamin/calcium powder to a sandwich bag and shake the crickets in that to coat them with powder and it also dazes them slightly so your gecko can have bit of a chance to get them. Use calcium and vitamin powder once or twice a week and calcium-only powder for all other feedings if you want I usually use Nutrobal as I give my gecko a calcium dish all ready in there viv.


Housing

This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage and adequate ventilation. A vivarium measuring 75cm (30 inches) in length by 45cm (18 inches) deep by 45cm (18 inches) high is sufficient for a small colony of geckos (3 or 4). However, males are notoriously aggressive and should not be kept with other males. Hatchlings should be kept in a smaller container which can be housed in their future vivarium. The cage setup for leopard geckos can be as simple or elaborate, as you like. A single animal can be maintained in a 2ft aquarium with a paper substrate especially when young YOU CAN use sand but I personally recommend to wait till it’s about 6 months and onwards to use sand, as sand can lead to impactation when there are smaller They will occasionally ingest too much sand in their craving for calcium which why I put some calcium powder in a small dish for my gecko to lick on if she has the craving

Leopard geckos will choose one corner of the tank to relieve themselves, and use it solely. This facilitates cleanup.

In addition to hiding places at both the warm and cool ends of the cage, a plastic shoe box or small freezer container, coconut shell, with a hole cut in the side, I have used a large margarine tub, is provided for the geckos. Inside the box, there is a damp peat moss/vermiculite mixture or some damp kitchen towel can be used BUT make sure it is kept moist daily. This hide box not only provides a place for females to lay eggs, but also provides the humidity required for the geckos to shed properly. This should be a moist box and the box should be placed in the middle of the tank. An alternative is to spray a warm corner of the enclosure 3-4 times per week. If a moist area for shedding is not provided, the shed skin may remain on the toes and constrict, eventually causing the loss of the toe.

Hides These are essential to prevent stress and to allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.


Water

These animals in particular do not require great amounts of water, spraying on a daily base is often sufficient however, it may be wise to supply a shallow bowl of water to enable the animal to use it when needed.


Temperature

The temperature underneath the bulb should be at least 86 - 96°F (30 - 35°C) which aids digestion and absorption of food. The background temperature should be in the region of 26 - 28°C (79 - 82°F) with a night time temperature of 20 - 25°C (68 - 77°F).

A temperature gradient is essential because geckos, like other reptiles, are unable to physiologically regulate their body temperature unlike mammals that can. Instead they will find a position in the tank that is at the temperature they require. Proper temperature is essential for digestion as geckos absorb heat from the ground.

A temperature gradient can be achieved by placing an under tank heat mat (and protected basking light if you can’t get the right temperature) at one end of the tank to create the warm end.

The substrate temperature at the warm end of the tank should be approximately 88°F to 90°F. Also 70°F should be sufficient for the rest of the tank. Hot rocks are not recommended AT all these are dangerous as they cannot be cooled down and regulated these can cause SERIOUS BURNS toy your loved gecko. It is advisable to use any heat sources in combination with a thermostat to more-precisely regulate the temperature.

Heat mat to use is called a habistat heat mat which come sin varies of sizes THIS must be controlled by a thermostat which can cost up to £15 and onwards

If using a light bulb this can also be controlled by a thermostat which is called a sun daylight which is more expensive this is about £25 onwards.

Light bulbs which can be used are ceramic light bulbs, heat lamps bulbs, moon light bulbs which are good to use just make sure that your gecko can not reach the bulb which can cause serious burns as well.

Wire mesh guards these should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns. Thermostat An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures within the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.

Thermometers One should be placed each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.

UV light source Reptisun 2.0UVB. This should be left on for 8 - 12 hours a day and replaced every 12 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. This will create a day and night time effect as well as give your lizard sufficient levels of UV in order to allow vitamin D3 synthesis. UV lighting is not necessary for leopard geckos since they are nocturnal, proper supplementation of their food. A night time and day time is need to stimulated by leaving a light on or cooling the temperature down at night, I have positioned my tank near a window where IT CAN NOT get hot, so the gecko can actually get some natural light and recognise day time and night time/. But you can use a time device on a lam

Substrate

Substrate can be sand (about 5cm (2 inches) in depth) with a third of the vivarium being of dampened moss to allow your gecko to hydrate itself. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. The only substrate that can be used without the risk of impaction is kitchen roll. A more natural look requires vigilance Repti – sand from your local pet shop is ideal if you want to make that natural environment look. Leopard gecko less than 6 inches in length is more at risk and should therefore be kept on kitchen roll.

Commonly used substrates for adults include fine sand (such as reptisand) and children’s play sand which I really don’t recommend as it seems to have bigger granular size which can cause or lad to impactation and calci sand which is sand with calcium inside which sometimes can be digested but is generally recommended to be used.

The safest option to use as a substrate is kitchen towel as it can’t be eaten and absorbs faeces and water easily.

Substrates to avoid include corncob, bark, wood and crushed walnut as this has proven to make your leopard gecko suffer.



Shedding

notice as the gecko is coming near to shedding that their skin will appear dull (it is important to check that the moist hide is moist during this time, and if the tank environment is quite hot and dry, e.g. in summer months, it may also be beneficial to lightly mist the tank for a day or two prior to the leos shed), and immediately prior to the shed the skin will be loose. It is normal for the gecko to peel the skin from its body and eat it (which is interesting to watch!), the entire process should take no more than a couple of hours or if the gecko is a “pro” 30 mins.

Once the gecko has shed it is important to check that all of the skin has been removed.

Pay particular attention to the toes, around the eyes and the snout. Any skin remaining can cause problems, i.e. skin left around the toes can restrict the blood flow and after a few bad sheds the toes can drop off. If any skin is left it is quite easily removed. Pour a small amount of warm water into a plastic container and place the leo in it (the water level should be around half way up the leos legs). After the gecko has been soaking for a few minutes, take a wet cotton bud and wipe the skin off gently. If the skin is around the snout, or an area which is not submerged in the water, the cotton bud should be kept wet and continually (gently) rubbed over the unshed area. It may take a lot of patience, and several attempts to remove the skin. The skin should gradually rub off on the cotton bud, never pull the skin off as you may damage the healthy new skin underneath and may leave the wound susceptible to infection. Any skin left unshed around the eyelids should be treated very gently, in order that the eyes and eyelids are not damaged.

If the skin is around the snout, care should be taken not to get water in the gecko nostrils! If after several attempts, rubbing with a wet cotton bud has failed to remove the unshed skin, rubbing a small amount of vegetable oil onto the unshed skin may help to soften it.

Also there is another product you can use with the water I is called Easy Shed which I have just purchased and not used but supposing it is very good but the downside its cost £6.45 for a 200ml bottle, if you want to stick with baby oil stick with it if not use Easy shed add 10ml of easy shed to 500ml of tepid water, allow reptile to soak for 15 min and rub excessive skin gently with a cotton bud/pad”


any more info would be muchly appreciated

Thank you

Lisa